| Climbing
in different peaks of Nepal.
Different
mountains have various levels of difficulty. All of our
climbs follow the standard and easiest route on every mountain.
This gives us a better chance to reach the top. Our guides
always pick safe routes and know the signs of danger. We
give all our clients time to acclimate and if the altitude
begins to effect anyone we know how to react. Good physical
shape is needed for these climbs but no climbing experience
is needed. We urge all clients to follow an exercise routine
before coming to Nepal.
(I) Trekking peaks: smaller and easier
(II) Climbing peaks: higher and challenging including Everest
(I) Trekking peaks: smaller and easier, here are the most
popular climbs we offer:
Mera Peak-6,476 m ( 21,247 ft):
Mera Peak is one of the highest trekking peaks in Nepal.
It is also an easier climb than most others. It is located
south of Everest in the Hinku valley. We follow the standard
route up the North Face . The climb itself takes 3 – 4 days
including 2 nights at base camp depending on weather. Though
the climb is not technically difficult good physical condition
is a must. It takes 6 days to trek to base camp from Lukla
and 6 days to trek back. Give yourself at least three weeks
in Nepal if you want to climb Mera Peak.
Island
Peak-6,189 m (20,305 ft): The name Island
peak comes from the fact that the peak looks like a island
surrounded by ice. We climb Island peak via the South-East
flank on a pretty straight forward climb. There are amazing
views of Everest as well as the entire Khumbu region. This
climb is reached with the Everest base camp trek and takes
around 6-7 days to get to base camp from Lukla. The climb
requires good physical condition.
Tharpu Chuli- 5,500 m (18, 045 m): This mountain
is often called Tent Peak due to it’s tent like shape. This
beautiful mountain is situated in the middle of the Annapurna
Sanctuary. We follow the North-West ridge to a high camp
and the next day follow the same ridge to the top. The trek
to base camp from Pokhara takes an average of at least 5
days. So the entire trip can take 2 to 3 weeks.
There are many other trekking peaks that can be climbed
such as Mardi Himal, the Chulus, Hiunchuli, and Ganesh
Himal. We can guide any of the trekking peaks you wish.
Clothing and Equipment: Having the proper clothing
and equipment is a must for all of our climbing trips. Some
gear is available for rent in Kathmandu such as double boots,
crampons, and ice axes. But sizes and availability of this
gear varies so it could be in your best interest to get
all the gear before you come. We will provide you an equipment
list once you have decided on what trip you would like.
Our guides are experienced mountain climbers who have explored
many of the peaks in Nepal. They will teach you the fundamentals
of mountaineering and safe glacier travel. They are trained
in 1st aid and know how to spot altitude sickness. They
are also friendly and eager to show you their culture.
If you are a professional climber who needs assistance for
a climb please contact us. We can make sure everything runs
smoothly and organized. We can also deal with the often
complicated permit process. So please let us handle your
next climbing expedition.
Trekking Peaks
We can organize expeditions on any of the summits listed
here-after, providing mountain guides and other staff, who
have been there and know the routes; according to the destination
of your choice, we'll send you detailed route information,
as well as recommendations on technical equipment and the
capacities required.
The list of "Trekking Peaks" which opened for
trekking groups with permission from Nepal Mountaineering
Association:
18 Peaks
are opened for trekking groups with permission from Nepal
Mountaineering Association (NMA)
Appendix
"1"
| Name
of the peaks |
Ht.
in Mt. |
Mountain.
Region |
| Mera peak |
6654m |
Khumbu Himal |
| Chulu
East |
6584m |
Damodar Himal |
| Singu
Chuli (Fluted
Peak) |
6501m |
Annapurna |
| Hiunchuli |
6441m |
Annapurna |
| Chulu West |
6419m |
Damodar Himal |
| Kusum Kangru |
6367m |
Khumbu Himal |
| Pharchamo |
6187m |
Rolwaling |
| Imja
Tse (Island Peak) |
6160m |
Khumbu |
| Lobuje |
6119m |
Khumbu Himal |
| Pisang |
6091m |
Damodar Himal |
| Kwangde |
6011m |
Rolwaling |
| Ramdung |
5925m |
Rolwaling |
| Paldor |
5896m |
Langtang Himal |
| Kongma
Tse
(Mera Peak) |
5849m |
Khumbu Himal |
| Ganja
La Chuli (Naya Kanga) |
5844m |
Langtang Himal |
| Pokhalde |
5806m |
Khumbu Himal |
| Tharpu
Chuli (Tent Peak) |
5663m |
Annapurna |
| Mardi
Himal |
5587m |
Annapurna |
Peak Fee:
The fees are as follows:
| Group
Size |
Rate
US$ |
Additional
P/P US$ |
| 1-4 Persons |
US $350.00
Only |
|
| 5-8 Persons |
US $350.00 |
Plus40.00
(Per person) |
| 9-12 Persons |
US $510.00 |
Plus 25.00
(Per person) |
The fees will be applicable from 1st. Jan, 2001 onwards.
(II) Climbing peaks: higher and challenging including Everest
Climbing in the Nepal Himalaya:
Expeditions to any of the highest mountains of Nepal, including
all those ranging in between 7,000 and 8,000m. requires
long-term planning and through organization. Therefore,
we do not wish to overload this site with an itinerary of
all the mountains & particular information; on request
and considering how often change in the regulation arise,
we'll supply you with all the latest route information and
planning requirements.
However we have enclosed some of the pretty famous on charts:
Over 8,000 m. Mountains for expedition.
| Name
of the peak |
Altitude-mt |
Location |
Administrative
Zone |
| Mt.
Everest |
8,848 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
| Kanchenjunga |
8,586 |
Kanchenjunga |
Mechi |
| Lhotse |
8,516 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
| Ylaung
Khang |
8,505 |
Kanchenjunga |
Mechi |
| Makalu |
8,463 |
Mahalangur |
Koshi |
| Lhotse
Shar |
8,400 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
| Cho
Oyu |
8,201 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
| Dhaulagiri
I |
8,167 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
| Manaslu |
8,163 |
Mansiri |
Gandaki |
| Annapurna
I |
8,091 |
Gandaki |
Gandaki |
Between 7,000 m. to 8,000
m. Mountain to climb.
| Peaks |
Heights
-M |
Location |
Administrative
Zone |
| Gyachung
Khang |
7,952 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
| Annapurna
II |
7,937 |
Gandaki |
Gandaki |
| Kangbachen |
7,903 |
Kanchenjunga/Mechi |
Mechi |
| Himalchuli
East |
7,893 |
Mansiri/Gorkha |
Gandaki |
| Peak
29 Dakura |
7,871 |
Mansiri |
Gandaki |
| Nuptse |
7,885 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
| Dhaulagiri
II |
7,751 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
| Ngojumba
Kang |
7,743 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
| Dhaulagiri
III |
7,715 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
| Kumbhakarna |
7,710 |
Kanchenjunga |
Mechi |
| Makalu
II |
7,668 |
Mahalangur |
Koshi |
| Dhaulagiri
IV |
7,661 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
| Varaha
Shikhar |
7,647 |
Annapurna |
Dhaulagiri |
| Dhaulagiri
V |
7,618 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
| Shantishikhar |
7,591 |
Mahalangur |
Sagarmatha |
| Annapurna
III |
7,556 |
Annapurna |
Gandaki |
| Himalchuli
West |
7,540 |
Mansiri |
Gandaki |
| Annapurna
VI |
7,520 |
Annapurna |
Gandaki |
| Khang
Sar Kang |
7,485 |
Annapurna |
Gandaki |
| Jongsang
Peak |
7,483 |
Janak |
Mechi |
| Shartse |
7,459 |
Khumbu |
Sagarmatha |
| Gangapuran |
7,455 |
Annapurna |
Gandaki |
| Gaesh
I( Yangrima) |
7,429 |
Dhading |
Bagmati |
| Himalchuli
North |
7,371 |
Mansiri |
Gandaki |
| Churen |
7,371 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
| Kirat
Chuli |
7,365 |
Kanchenjunga |
Mechi |
| Chamlang |
7,319 |
Mahalangur |
Sagarmatha |
| Dhaulagiri
VI |
7,268 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
| Putha
Himchuli |
7,246 |
Dhaulagiri |
Dhaulagiri |
| Langtang
Lirung |
7,234 |
Langtang |
Bagmati |
Rules
of climbing:
A.
Asking for climbing permission: The following documents
have to be sent to the Ministry of ourism, Mountaineering
Division, Katmandu, Nepal.
- Completed Application
- Endorsement of the National Alpine
Club.(if there is no Alpine Club, endorsement of the
Government of your side)
- Short biography of all members
of the expedition (with photograph)
- Map and/ or photograph of the mountain
including climbing route.
- Approach route map.
Since
climbing permission is granted on 'first come first serve'
basis, it is therefore necessary to enlist the expedition's
name for the particular mountain for the particular season
of the year. The listing is made when the completed application
form with all documents are received by the Ministry of
Tourism. Incase all documents mentioned above cannot be
submitted at a time, booking is possible with only the completed
application by the expedition leader.
No fee is required to enlist the expedition's name.
B. Expedition with Eco Trek: Eco Trek or
Eco Trekking & Expedition Pvt. Ltd. is a respected and
Government registered trekking company in Nepal. Eco Trek
can do all the necessary work for the climbing permission
as your local expedition operator or local contactor as
per mountaineering Expedition Regulations.
C. Climbing Permit fee (royalty): The leader of
the expedition team or its agent is required to compulsorily
pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (Royalty) within
TWO MONTHS of the date of permission. Incase of Failure
of the payment of royalty within two months such permission
may be CANCELLED. The payment can be sent to Eco Trek’s
bank account by any means of money transfer.
D. Preparation In Nepal for Expedition:
Import of foods and equipment:- Invoices
and airway bill or bill of lading (four copies each) have
to be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for import license
and customs clearance for the import of expedition foods
and equipment to Nepal. CIF Katmandu value is to be clearly
mentioned in the invoice.
Communication Equipment:- As Walkie-talkies,
Transceiver (Wireless) sets and other communication equipment
are controlled articles in Nepal. Please declare these articles
in the customs office (at entry point) that you wish to
bring into Nepal for use during climbing period.
Such equipments have to be collected from the customs office
by receiving permission letter from the Ministry of communication.
For the clearance of the equipment completed application
form and invoice with catalogue or specifications (four
copies each) should be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism
(Eco Trek ) which are latter to be sent to other concerned
government offices.
E. Filming or Documentary: Permission is
required for filming or documentary. The Ministry of Communication
must be contacted any time for queries about filming in
Nepal. Please let us know we will take care of every thing
here in Nepal.
F. The Royalty and size of the Expedition team "Rules
effective from 1996 Spring": More than one
team maybe permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by
each separate route in one season. A royalty of US $ 50,000
has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of 5
members. The team may include 5 more members provided if
it pays extra US $ 10,000 for each additional member. The
royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team
members will be granted three months visas. Additional US
$ 20,000 will have to be paid the team willing to scale
Sagarmatha by normal South East Ridge route.
In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can
have up to 5 members for the minimum royalty, and 5 more
members for the additional royalty.
The team already permitted to scale Sagarmath will have
to pay US $ 10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route.
It will have to pay additional US $ 20,000 if it intends
to change the ascent route to normal South East Ridge route.
For peak other than Sagarmatha, the team will have to pay
additional 25% of the royalty in US $ to change the ascent
route.
Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative
formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage
of the expedition team to their respective countries, after
the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism &
Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from
them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage
from Nepal.
"Effective
from 1992" the Ministry of Tourism has fixed the price
of the deposit for the management of Garbage's by each mountaineering
team who tries to clim any peak in Khumbu region are as
follows;
- Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) US $ 4,000
or equivalent (Rs)
- Other peaks above 8000 meter US $
3000 or equivalent (Rs)
- All peaks less than 8000 meters US
$ 2000 or equivalent (Rs)
| Royalties
of the mountain expedition (In U.S. Dollar)
(RELATING TO SUB-RULE (1) OF RULE (5) ROYALTY "US
$") |
| *
Mt. Everest US $50,000 for team of to5 and US $10
00 for each additional members/ maximum size is
10 on each team. |
| *
Peaks above 8000 meter (except Mt. Everest) US $10,000
for team of up to7 and US $1500 for each additional
members/ maximum size is 12 on each team. |
| *
Peaks of 7501 - 8000m./ US $4,000 for team up to
7 and for each additional US $500.00 & maximum
size is 12 members |
| *
Peaks of 7001 - 7500m/.US $3,000 for team up to
7 and for each additional
US $400.00 & maximum size is 12 members |
| *
Peaks of 6501 - 7000m/.US $2,000 for team up to
7 and for each additional US $300.00 & maximum
size is 12 members |
|